The sustainable fashion scene has become a force: practically all fashion brands today have a sustainability policy and speak out on ethical issues. New brands launching often make sustainability their entire focus, standing proudly against injustice in fashion.
The overwhelming majority of these, however, are womenswear brands. To this day, ethical fashion has a gap in the market: menswear. Innovators and pioneers in this area are few and far between, but there is one brand that has been working to change this for years: Brave GentleMan.
By Sascha Camilli: writer, speaker, activist, and vegan fashion expert.
The founder of the brand, Joshua Katcher, is one of the most influential people in ethical menswear, and the most prominent voice in vegan fashion for men. Aside from his work with the brand, Katcher is featured in the fashion documentary SLAY, was an adjunct professor at the Parsons The New School, and has written the book
Fashion Animals, on the history of animal use in the industry. T
oday, he is also the North America Hub Strategist for the forest protection nonprofit Canopy, where his focus is on scaling next-gen manufacturing in North America. Katcher also sits on the board of directors for Collective Fashion Justice, an organization dedicated to illuminating the interlinked injustices in fashion supply chains that harm the planet, people and our fellow animals. It's safe to say Katcher is one of the busiest people in fashion - ahead of the launch of his label on Immaculate Vegan, we were glad to steal a sliver of his time for a conversation on beginnings, the future, and the high cost of cheap fashion.
"Before starting Brave GentleMan, my career was quite varied," Katcher recalls. "I worked as a producer at major networks like MTV, and as an editor and post-producer at top advertising agencies. I did a very short stint as an EMT in college, I’ve been a waiter in NYC, and I even tried to make a career in sculpture (there was a small gallery in Brooklyn that represented me in the early 2000s called Figureworks)." He also reflects on how his varied experiences in fashion have informed the background for his brand. "I’ve taught as an adjunct professor and authored a book on animals in fashion. My diverse experiences have provided me with a wealth of skills that empower me as an entrepreneur. My journey into fashion began with my blog, The Discerning Brute, where I wrote about veganism, fashion and masculinity. This platform allowed me to explore the intersection of ethics, sustainability, and style, eventually leading me to create a brand that aligned with these values."
As for many entrepreneurs, it was the frustration with gaps in the market that led Katcher to start a company. "The inception of Brave GentleMan stemmed from my frustration with the lack of well-made vegan menswear. Writing about fashion for The Discerning Brute made me realize the power of clothing as a tool for articulating ideas and identity. When I couldn't find vegan shoes that met my standards, I decided to make them myself." Like many other ethical fashion companies, Brave GentleMan's path wasn't always smooth sailing. "This journey was filled with trial and error, but despite the challenges, my dedication to creating a brand that marries ethical production with high-quality design, as well as all the amazing circumfauna innovation is what kept me going, and keeps me going."
One challenge in particular that Katcher has struggled with is financial. "One significant challenge is the high cost of producing ethical and vegan fashion. People are often trained to expect fashion to be inexpensive, not realising the true cost of cheap, fast fashion. Ethical production involves fair wages, sustainable materials, and high-quality craftsmanship, which come at a higher price. Educating consumers about these hidden costs has been crucial. Overcoming this challenge involved persistently advocating for transparency in the supply chain and demonstrating the value of investing in ethical fashion. Additionally, leveraging social media to build a community around Brave GentleMan helped spread this message and connect with like-minded individuals".
Such individuals seem to be flocking to Brave GentleMan these days, and often they're A-listers - Katcher's designs have been worn by Liam Hemsworth, Joaquin Phoenix and Alan Cumming to name a few. The brand has been featured in VOGUE, GQ, ELLE, Paper, and Forbes to name a few. But who are the people Katcher creates for? "The ideal person I design for is someone who sees fashion as more than just aesthetics. They value the story behind how their clothing is made and are excited by innovation, sustainability, and ethics. This person is a "citizen investor," someone who uses their purchasing power to support brands and systems they believe in. They are not just passive 'consumer' receptacles; they are conscious of the impact their choices have on the world and seek to align their wardrobe with their values. This approach transforms fashion from a passive consumption activity into an active expression of their identity and beliefs."
What a typical day looks like for Katcher varies greatly. "A typical day for me is quite dynamic and varied, reflecting the multifaceted nature of my responsibilities and interests. As the North America Hub Coordinator for Canopy, I work on advancing the protection and ancient and endangered forests, and the scaling of next-gen materials here in North America. This involves fostering relationships with innovators, producers, brands, legislators, NGOs, and other potential partners in carefully mapped hubs." But just like so many of us, Katcher enjoys starting his day with some quality time with his partner. "My day often starts with getting a cup of hojicha or matcha with my husband James Koroni (he’s a comedian) and we often play a few of the New York Times word games together. Then we both dive into work."
"Work" means many things for Katcher - one might wonder just how he finds enough time in the day to do all the things he does. "In addition to my work with Canopy, I manage the business side of Brave GentleMan and I also co-founded a vegan cheese business, RIND by Dina & Joshua. Researching innovative materials and staying updated on industry trends is crucial to ensure our products remain at the forefront of sustainability and ethics."
Like many multi-hyphenates and entrepreneurs, Katcher sometimes feels the pressure. He finds harmony by coming back to the constants in his life. "Balancing these professional responsibilities with my personal life is a constant challenge. I make time for my social life, spending quality moments with my friends and my husband and our two cats. Finding balance amidst these varied roles requires time management and a deep commitment to my values."
All photos courtesy of Brave GentleMan.
By Sascha Camilli
About Sascha
Sascha Camilli is a vegan fashion writer, speaker and activist. Her book Vegan Style is out now on Murdoch Books. For more about Sascha, you can read our interview with her or read her newsletter Kind of Wild. You can also follow her on Instagram, Twitter and LinkedIn.
Cover image by pure by luce
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